So often we in America conceive of the world as a series of bilateral relationships, but life abroad is simply broader. Exploring and appreciating a wider and more complex variety of international relations is one of the small joys of that broader world, and I suppose my Irish-American blood gets a particular trill from encountering the Irish-Japanese community.
Moya Bligh, a good friend from the women artists’ group in my last post, is a printmaker and woodblock artist from Kilkenny, Ireland. She came to Japan some 35 years ago on a Japanese government scholarship to study art and has lived here ever since.
Now an art professor at Seika University, Moya recently curated a print exhibition, idir/aida – a celebration of Ireland in Japan at Artislong (life is short), a gallery here on the west side of Kyoto. The show marked the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between the two countries and featured five printmakers, three Irish and two Japanese, who had each studied and worked in the other’s country. The works reflected each artist’s interpretation of the cross-cultural influences in their shared experiences.
As delightful as the show has been, it is not an isolated phenomenon. Artists and writers from Ireland and Japan have been finding inspiration in each other’s culture for quite some time. In the late 1800s, Lafcadio Hearn, an Irish writer who became fascinated with Japan, translated and popularized Japanese ghost stories in the west and his books have continued in print for over a century. Contemporary Irish writers have continued the tradition with no lesser degree of fascination.
And the reverse is also true, I have several Japanese friends who regale me with stories of their lives in Dublin as we sit in one of the several Irish pubs that dot the cityscape of old Kyoto.
Added on January 29, 2009:
Much to my grief, my good friend Moya Bligh died yesterday, January 28, 2009, after a brief illness due to injuries sustained in a bicycling accident two weeks earlier. I am told that her passing was peaceful. The loss of Moya’s sweet spirit is grieved by very many, yet she will continue to live on in the hearts and minds of all who were blessed to know her.

The artists’ group (pictured to the right at a recent outing to a Turkish restaurant here in Kyoto) includes potters and painters, calligraphers and printmakers, papermakers and several textile people. Kyoto is, afterall, the textile capital of old Japan and attracts fabric enthusiasts, collectors and artists from around the world. And the beauty of Japanese paper is legendary throughout the world.
A recent exhibition by Regina Altherr (second from the left in the group photo above), a potter from Switzerland, shows the fabulous influence Japan can have on an artist’s work. And so it is with each of us, bringing the skills and talents we developed in our home countries into play with the culture and mythos that surrounds our lives in Japan.
Hanko is a Japanese word for an object more commonly known in the West by its Chinese name, “chop”. Basically its a stone stamp carved with characters, known as kanji, representing the person’s name. Although there are now machine-made hanko available, a first-class hanko is always hand carved and is a very personal thing. Like a master calligrapher, the hanko carver may exaggerate the thickness or thinness of a stroke, elaborately straighten or curve it, or even deliberately deform an ideogram to create an artistic effect. While calligraphers may work with a variety of scripts, a hanko is most often carved in tensho script, a squarish blocky type of character that lends itself to stone carving more easily than the fluid curving lines one sees in brush writing.
But for a birthday many years ago, my daughter-in-law gave me a kanji “spelling” for my name. Selecting kanji is a time-consuming process and my kanji is a gift that I constantly treasure. First a number of optional kanji choices with the desired phonetic are identified and then the picture meaning must be considered and when several kanji are combined the sounds and meanings often change, so that must be considered as well as the visual balance of the strokes in the final comination. There are even fortune-tellers who claim to predict your future based on the number of strokes in the kanji comprising your name and so, that can be another consideration.
Reading my kanji from right to left, the sounds are PA-WA-SU for Powers, my family name, and the picture meanings are “green leaf”, “peace and friendship”, and “long life”. When my Japanese friends see my name written, they smile and say, “Oh, that so suits you!” I am afterall, still something of a flower child.
On Saturdays, I study flowers. 

Some of the flea market vendors now cut up the kimono to sell in scraps and pieces, sometimes for more money than I used to pay for a whole kimono. A truly choice scrap measuring just 6 or 10 inches square might be priced at $15 or $20, and sometimes even more.
With more than 1600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines in Kyoto, it’s no surprise that Kitano is not the only shrine to host a monthly flea market in its garden. Each of the markets has its own character. While Kitanois known as a treasure-hunter’s paradise, Chion-ji is known for contemporary crafts. All of the vendors must have made their wares.


In the gardens and streets surrounding the shrine, vendors of every exotic treasure imaginable display their wares in a myriad of little stalls packed one right after the other.
stop to swoon over the Imari,
sneak past the sweet shops 
kimono in stacks
and kimono in piles on the floor.
It’s said that a journey of 10,000 miles starts with a single step, but after a few million steps or so, it’s good to pause for a backward glance and consider the distance you’ve traveled. My current life’s journey started with birth in West Virginia, then I grew up in New Jersey, left home for New York City, and raised my own son in San Francisco. I thought I’d been all over the map, but would anyone have predicted I’d move to Japan? I guess my sense of the map just got a little bigger when I moved here.